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Brake light pressure switch

Discussion in 'LS-427' started by Roush #1, Aug 31, 2013.

  1. Roush #1

    Roush #1 Member

    For those of you who haven't replaced your original pressure switch for your brake lights with a mechanical switch, the replacement part number at O'Reilly"s Auto Parts for an new pressure switch is BWD S194, for a genuine Made in Mexico part.

    The cost is $7.57 including tax, title and insurance and includes a limited lifetime warranty whatever that means. The original part lasted exactly six years. We fired the Gobra up six years ago today. He has taken us over 36,000 miles. The original switch still functioned, but spurted brake fluid when under pressure.

    Happy 6th birthday Mr. Gobra !

  2. sleal

    sleal Member

    Happy Birthday!! And congrats on your switch life, I have had my car on the road for 7k miles and have had to replace it already, not for a leak but the switch failed. Forced me to develop a nice system for brake bleeding through so not a total loss.
  3. Barnsnake

    Barnsnake Member

    Mine lasted 7-1/2 years (6-1/2 since paint). It didn't totally fail, but it required a few hundred psi to turn on the brake lights.
  4. IndyCobra

    IndyCobra Member

    Thought I had a problem with mine as well when the wife said "Hey, did you know that you don't have any brake lights?" Crap I thought, everyone was right. I should have put one on the brake pedal. Went down and bought a replacement one, crawled under that car only to find it was a loose connection. Cleaned it up and everything works fine, going on two years. Nice to know I have another 4 to go.
  5. Barnsnake

    Barnsnake Member

    If the switch is below the master cylinder and you turn the T-fitting so the switch is horizontal, you can change the switch without bleeding the brakes. Just put a drop of brake fluid in the end of the switch, hold it vertically, rock it into the opening, let a little fluid well out of the connection, and tighten it. It's a one minute job that way.

  6. bktlist

    bktlist Member

    Well my switch is also taking a few hundred pounds to activate, and while it is nice to have the young girls flag me down to tell me my brakes do not work, I need to fix this problem before I get rear ended by a semi. So anyone have info on a brake switch that operates at lower pressure or a mechanical one I can install on the pedal?
  7. Barnsnake

    Barnsnake Member

    The new one I got at O'reilly's comes on at a very low pressure. It is visually identical to the old one.

  8. sleal

    sleal Member

    Young girls flagging you down..............I'll be back after I disconnect my brake lights :lol:
  9. bktlist

    bktlist Member

    Jim - is this the same part that Roush #1 mentioned in this forum as an O'Reilly's part BWD S194?
  10. Barnsnake

    Barnsnake Member

  11. crzyfst

    crzyfst Member

    I think mine just went out after only 2500 miles. Is this the one for replacement?

    http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance- ... tId=763631

    I looked on O'rielly's site but couldn't fine part list in the OP on this thread.

    Anyone know if they still carry it? Maybe what year/make/model vehicle uses the same thing?

    EDIT: Ah I found it, just have to put in S194 and not the BWD part. Now I just wonder if it has the same pressure settings.
  12. crzyfst

    crzyfst Member

    By this do you mean so the prongs are standing up? Mine is already like that and if so that will make it really easy to swap.
  13. Barnsnake

    Barnsnake Member

    With the prongs pointing sideways. That way you can fill the switch with fluid and keep it vertical (full) until you rock it 90 degrees into the fitting. The fitting should be dribbling brake fluid due to gravity, so you end up with all fluid and no air.
    With the fitting pointed vertically it will be near impossible to avoid having air in the switch (which could never be bled out). It might be possible by filling the switch and covering it with something thin like a feeler gauge. Invert the sender onto the fitting, and quickly jerk the feeler gauge out while immediately threading the sender in. That would be fairly easy in a bench vise, but it might prove difficult in that switch location on the car.

    Let us know how it goes.

  14. TexasDoc

    TexasDoc Member

    It could be that the balance bar for the brake pedal is sending all the pressure to the fronts and no pressure to the rear brakes. That could be why you have to push so hard for the brake lights to come on. Try adjusting the balance bar for a more rear bias and see if your brake lights come on sooner.
  15. bktlist

    bktlist Member

    I changed out the switch and that solved the problem.
  16. crzyfst

    crzyfst Member

    Got it swapped out and all seems well. Hope this one lasts a little longer.

  17. crzyfst

    crzyfst Member

    Uh what? I"m too scared to click the link ;)
  18. Luce

    Luce Member

    Click it. It may be more pretty corsets. May even have some farm animals wearing them!

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