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Broken 4 Link

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by bktlist, Jun 14, 2014.

  1. bktlist

    bktlist Member

    Broke a 4 link over the past weekend and can't really think of any event at the time that could have caused it. Anyone have any experience with this same issue and if there any any suspension mods I need to progress to prevent a repeat?

    Attached files 4691-2583.jpg (16.8 KB)
  2. Roush #1

    Roush #1 Member

    If the 4 link was not binding and moving freely a defective part is all I can think of. I am not aware of this being a common problem.
    Keep us posted on how this comes out
  3. Luce

    Luce Member

    Heims should be starchily in compression or tension load. This computer won't let me open and blow up the pic, but it looks like the ball may have seized in the cage and flexed the stud back and forth until it snapped. Suspension Bind may have done it too, and I wouldn't rule out manufacture defect either.

    I would give them all a good going over. If suspension bind was the culprit, all 7 remaining heims may be on the verge of snapping too.

    With the 4 link, you have one pass. if a second heim goes, your in serious trouble.
  4. bktlist

    bktlist Member


    Thanks for the reply. I suspect the ball may have seized as you mentioned. This is one failure I never want to repeat.

    I plan to replace all of the heim joints. If anyone has suggestion on best quality I would be interested in this information.

    I also plan to install the rod end seals summit sells to try and keep them lubricated. Jody is using these and says he has to grease about every 1000 miles. If anyone has tried other lube options interested in this feedback as well.

    And lastly I am going to replace the broken heim joint, keep the set up a close to orginal, and then take it over to LSC and have them review the install to see if there are any smoking guns. If anyone know of another outfit who has 4 link setup experience in the four link set up I am interested in having them take another look as well.
  5. Luce

    Luce Member

    I like these. They're teflon, so run them dry. Then they don't attract dirt.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/XMR-10-ROD-ENDS ... 5ae05632ed

    They're good guys. You can call them if you want, but he over the phone price is the same. They custom make aluminum radius rods too.

    Double check size and hands. I don't know for sure if this is the right size.
  6. bktlist

    bktlist Member

    Decided to go with the heim joints from Rod End. They past my quality inquiries. Went with the CM and the heavy shank so had to also go to a size larger on the swage tubes. Install went well with no binding. Also change the anchor hole for the top link to get more paralell with the bottom and changed some spacers on the shock mount to get better alignment.

    In talking with others who have seen these failures I keep getting the same feedback - for our application - high horespower - the CM heims are where we need to go for added strength. Also need to keep checking for binding as the system starts to wear from dirt etc as this can increase stress on the heims.

    Thanks guys for the feedback to get me here - got it aligned today and back on the road.
  7. rossley

    rossley New Member

    My track is off by 1/4-1/2 inch, 76 on one side, 751/2 on the other. is this significant ? thanks
  8. rossley

    rossley New Member

    My track is off by 1/4-1/2 inch, 76 on one side, 751/2 on the other. is this significant ? thanks
  9. bktlist

    bktlist Member

    What are you measuring between?
  10. rossley

    rossley New Member

    between the wheels, 12 inches off the floor, thanks for your question. will that work
  11. bktlist

    bktlist Member

    Mine was off about the same when I took it in for an alignment and checked out to be within tolerance so you should be OK - they can confim however.
  12. rossley

    rossley New Member

    thanks, Doug. I', tempted to tweak the 4 link a little to get it closer to even on both sides. so, the 94 probe gt is the right specs for alignment, what did you end up with for camber and caster
  13. bktlist

    bktlist Member

    My caster was pushing the max of 3.8 and the camber was -0.8- about in the middle of the GT Probe specs. I had problems getting my caster to where it was prefered because the upper A arm ran out of adjustment. Long story - but basically I change out to the new upper A arm that LSC is now providing and had to use a spacer plate to mount it to the frame. By doing so it pushed out the upper A arm such that it limited the movement of the adjustment arms on the upper A arm and the ability to get the caster into a preferred setting. Someday I'll remove the spacer plate and modify the mounting bracket to give me more adjustmentt but it is not that off to be an issue right now.

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