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suspension programs

Discussion in 'Shop Talk' started by dwj, Oct 31, 2009.

  1. dwj

    dwj Member

    I am considering front, maybe rear suspension changes and have been reading all the old posts. I still have the original LS uppers ('01).

    Any feedback on the computer programs available? I think CC had a roll center program and Kevin had a front end geometry program?
    Good, bad, any others that have been tried.?

    Does anyone have a contact name at Baer Brakes that knows the LSC's??

    Thanks
    dwj
     
  2. Lakeway Cobra

    Lakeway Cobra Member

    I have a friend that is the team manager for an ALMS series team. He has the mitchell data system and has indicated he could put the data points in it. Someone would have to meaasure it & provide though.
     
  3. dwj

    dwj Member

    Lakeway,
    Few questions:
    Is this the software? pic below.

    Interested in knowing what the results of changes would be, would your friend enter a variety of data? Better yet, make recommendations on track set-up changes.

    Is there a spreadsheet of the data needed?

    DWJ

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  4. Lakeway Cobra

    Lakeway Cobra Member

    I'll ask him. It may take a few days to get a response.
     
  5. Lakeway Cobra

    Lakeway Cobra Member

    Caught up with my buddy and he is going to look into what data would need to be captured. He thinks he has the software module for 4 link setups as well.
     
  6. dwj

    dwj Member

    Excellent.

    Thought I was ready to put the lSC up on stands for the winter but we are having a heat wave this weekend in MN.
    Let me know.

    dwj
     
  7. Lakeway Cobra

    Lakeway Cobra Member

    Sorry for the long delay on this. My friend and I both have been travelling too much and just had a chance to catch up recently.

    Attached are some printouts from his software. We are to get together over the holidays and discuss more.

    If any of you know these dimensions I can easily have them input into the system. Otherwise, there will obviously be some measuring to do.

    Attached files 3674-2097.pdf (930 KB) 3675-2097.pdf (297.9 KB) 3676-2097.pdf (914.3 KB)
     
  8. dwj

    dwj Member

    Lakeway,
    Let me study these a little, at first glance I will probably have a few questions. I have been reading the Carroll Smith books that I think "prof" recommended and sometimes the old saying, ignorance is bliss has some merit.

    Unfortunately my car is on stands with the front and rear components out of it. New brakes, new balls joints, new steering, new UCA's,rear bearings, puke tanks for the engine/trans/rear oils, and a lot of other nuggets.

    The new parts are just starting to trickle in so I figure it will be March/April until stuff is on.

    I am not in Wyoming, but north of Minneapolis is not year round Cobra country. :)

    dwj
     
  9. 427HISS

    427HISS Member

    dwj- I've talked with Baer brake's for the "Shelby" calipers and rotors. They have a set for 15" through 18". I'm trying to get a up-grade deal for us LSC owners from them now. We'll see what happens. They are very expensive. Brian like the Wilwood system but can't get a price deal.
     
  10. dwj

    dwj Member

    Hiss,
    I went with Wilwood 6 piston front and 4 piston rear. I had the new series 4 piston from Baer on order last winter but they could never get the ones for a Ford 9" off the drawing board so I cancelled. Probably more brakes than I need for a 2800 # car(including the driver), but I have not experienced any loss of brakes because of heat yet.

    Have not driven much this year as my girls are getter into horses and I am in the process of trying to move to a new spot with more land.

    Been working with an instuctor at the track that raced a FF cobra and have a laundry list for this winter if I have any money available.

    New nose radiator shroud, do not like the way the LSC one fits, mine is like new and not installed if anyone is interested. Lower car about two inches which includes new shock mounts. header work and dry sump. Would need new/used wheels with different width/backspace if I do this. Front air dam. Money, money , money.

    The KC BB is running great, hope that does not mean its about ready to go boom.
    dwj
     
  11. 427HISS

    427HISS Member

    Can you post the brake part #

    Do you have a pic of the shroud ? How much ?

    What did you make that's different ?
    Kevin
     
  12. dwj

    dwj Member

    Rears. Dynalite pro w/parking kit. (12.19" rotor, 4 piston fixed caliber) Group part number 140-7140. I used the full circle retainer from Currie (the u-shaped from wilwood is flimsey). My rear was the big bearing ford style. Wilwood will send you a identification sheet for offsets and rear style before you order You will need new axle seals if you use full circle retainer. I went with the bearing/seal kit from Currie.( I have never had a leaking problem)

    Fronts.Dynapro 6 (12.19" rotor, 6 piston fixed caliber) Group part number 140-10742. For mustang II.

    With these, you can choose rotor style, pads, colors. You need 17" wheels and they can send you a template you cut out to ensure there is no caliper/wheel interference. Don at 805 388-1188 x 354 was very helpful to me.

    As the pads on the wilwood can be replaced without removing rotor, I went hard pipe into the caliper on the rears and SS braided on the front. I had to machine some of the spacers provided in able to center the caliper on the rotor correctly, you get to learn how to safety wire if you do not know how. One drawback, each corner has 4 bleeders. So including your clutch, you get to bleed 17 zerts.

    I can stop big time and have had no fade at the track that I can tell. Spent quite a bit of time and rubber setting up the bias bar, my fronts lock up just before the rears.The original brakes were a joke.

    Attached is a pic of the shroud, there is no instructions other than in the assembly manual for the car. The overall fit I did not like.This winter I will just have an aluminum one made based on the actual dimensions of where the oil cooler, radiator, etc are. LSC get $369 incl shipping for them, make me an offer. It has never been attached to the car, only placed in.

    Attached files 4061-2087.JPG (61 KB)
     
  13. 427HISS

    427HISS Member

    So you have 17" wheels, for those part numbers ?
    I have 15".
     
  14. 427HISS

    427HISS Member

    I just spoke with Don of Moser. Thank you for his number. :D

    These are the numbers for 15" wheels. 11"- 4- piston front & back. They just came out with the rear's.

    FRONT- #140-11017. (add "D" for cross drilled)

    UPDATE-
    Problem- using the serch, these number do not, come up ?
    The same with the rear ? :? :? :?
    I'll call him tomorrow.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    REAR- Your part number does say, "Kit fits some 15" wheels. I'll have to call "Don" and ask.
    Part # 140-7140 - Wilwood Forged Dynalite Rear Parking Brake Kit - Torino/New Style Ford (2.50 Offset)
    Rear End Axle: Big Ford New Style
    Axle Offset: 2.5
    Mount Type: Lug
    Caliper Type: 4 - Black Anodize
    Rotor Diameter: 12.19
    Wheel Diameter: 15

    What back spacing do you have ?
    Is the off-set they quote, fine on yours ?

    Can you send or post your brakes, front & back ?
    That would help bud.

    FRONT-
    [​IMG]

    REAR-
    [​IMG]
     
  15. dwj

    dwj Member

    Hiss,
    My invoices have about 50 part numbers so the group number is kind of a catch all. Attached is a pic of the clearance template. I thought I had some pics of the brakes on my hard drive, but did not find them. I have a full weekend ahead so I will not be able to get good pics with the wheels off for a little while.

    After numberous conversations with Baer, Wilwood, Brembo and knowledge people, I decided to go with non drilled rotors, this topic could be an interesting thread sometime. (rotating mass, heat disapation, stress points of the drilled, wieght of car, cooling ducts from the front, etc.). I know that drilled rotors look "hi tech", but they also crack easier.

    The master cylinder bores I ended up with is a post a while back.I can brake hard without locking the fronts pretty consistent, so the set-up works for me.I can lock all four if I mash the brake and I have big Kumho's. (remember the tires stop the car)

    I think I only got annoyed with Wilwood one time, so they were pretty good to deal with.
    dwj

    Attached files 4062-2087.JPG (196 KB)
     

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